San Sebastian, Spain / July 17, 2009 / dinner
Winederlust Rating (details below): 6.125 out of 10 / Winederlust Worthy: Maybe
Jay and I first tried to get into Arzak during our last visit to Spain seven years ago, but no luck – it was booked solid. This time around we emailed two months in advance (yes, emailed rather than had to call, which was another innovation since our original thwarted visit), and managed to get a table, albeit in the smoking section since apparently the non-smoking area was already booked. No matter (or a little matter, but we were willing to put up with some smoke to eat here). Arzak had gotten even more hype in the last few years, since the daughter (Elena) of the original chef (Juan-Mari) joined him in the kitchen and added more modern touches to his already renowned three Michelin-starred cooking.
But first there was the small matter of actually GETTING to the restaurant. We spent the day in Bordeaux, in the super-cute wine town of St.-Emilion and then touring and tasting at one of the most renowned Bordeaux grand crus, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, before crossing the border into Spain and arriving in San Sebastian in plenty of time (we thought) for our 8:45pm dinner. Of course, we didn’t bargain on either the crazy Friday afternoon rush hour traffic around the city of Bordeaux after our tasting, which set us back at least an hour, or the torrential hurricane-like downpour with massive winds that greeted us when we arrived in San Sebastian, or the construction seemingly all around the city that dead-ended the streets Google Maps told us to take. Amazingly, at around 8:30pm, 15 minutes before our reservation, we somehow located Arzak, in an unassuming house on a busy city street, but stupidly decided to find our hotel first so that we could change and freshen up before dinner. Due to the conditions mentioned above, we didn’t find it until about 9:30, and fearing that our reservation would be canceled, got ready to go in record time (and took a cab so that we wouldn’t chance finding Arzak again!).
Though we didn’t arrive at the restaurant till 10pm, it didn’t seem like a big deal – the staff welcomed us warmly and showed us to our table, upstairs in the smoking section. After the strict rules and formal traditions of French restaurants, we had forgotten that Spain was so laid back in comparison!
Inside, the restaurant itself was very modern, with walls either painted black or made of glass, a modern take on a lattice ceiling, and black and white photographs of pots and pans on the walls. It was the most urban “New York-style” restaurant we’d been to yet on this trip.
Another change from any of the restaurants we’d visited so far: The server actually walked us through the menu (in English, also unlike any of the places in France where it was pretty much French or nothing), and gave us choices for several dishes (lobster vs. squid, as well as choices for the fish and the meat), and even asked us how we would like everything prepared – how progressive! And Jay and I didn’t even have to choose the same things, imagine! Our server also steered us toward a bottle of the house red, a 2001 Arzak Rios Alta Rioja, which actually turned out to be really good with most of the dishes – light with red cherry flavors.
We started off with “Arzak’s Amusements” – a take on fish on a stick, ravioli stuffed with mushroom, what appeared to be taro chips with goat cheese inside, a tempura chorizo with tamarind, and an oyster in lime juice. All were very good and fairly light.
Next we moved on to the figs stuffed with foie gras. They were caramelized and seared on top like a crème brulee and were very tasty. However, this is also where Jay started to notice some general sloppiness with the aesthetics and service; the presentation of the figs on my plate was different than the ones on his plate (mine looked better, his looked a little off), a slight that would never have happened in one of the French restaurants we went to. He also noticed that the table next to us got three figs with foie gras each, while we only got two each, even though we were having the same tasting menu. Very odd. In any case, the dish was yummy.
Figs Stuffed with Foie Gras.
Next I had the lobster with what appeared to be Scandinavian-type rye crisps on the side and a small dish of tapioca salad, which had an odd consistency but was tasty.
Jay had the baby squid in bean juice with grilled onion and potato. He liked his dish, but didn’t think it was anything that amazing.
Baby Squid in Bean Juice with Grilled Onion and Potato.
Next came what the menu had described as the “eggs of the moment” – apparently whatever egg concoction the chefs chose to whip up that day. Unfortunately, this was the weakest and most unappetizing dish of the evening (and we saw people at other tables making faces when they tasted this one, too). The large egg was mixed with way-too-sweet toast crumbs and candied sesame seeds, and we think our server said there was also beer involved somewhere in the mixture, though we couldn’t taste it. It was just too overdone and not at all tasty.
"Eggs of the Moment."
The fish course was up next. Jay had the sole with olive oil and coco bread, which he pronounced only “ok,” and I had the tuna (bonito) with puree of parsley and served with a baked onion with a melon ball in the middle. I also thought that my dish was only ok – well-prepared, but nothing spectacular.
Sole with Olive Oil and Coco Bread.
Bonito with Puree of Parsley.
For the meat course, I opted for the pigeon, which was served with little onions, mini pickles, and what the server said were “blue onions,” which turned out not to be onions at all but little balls of something that squirted vinegar when I bit into them. The pigeon itself was good, but comparing it to some of the other pigeon I’d eaten in the last week, it definitely could not stand up to the version served at Troisgros (with the fresh apricot).
Pigeon with Onions.
Since Jay was sick of pigeon (as well as lamb, the other choice), he asked for the beef, with came with sweetbreads and a foam of red current. Unfortunately, he thought this dish was nothing special.
Beef with Sweetbreads and Red Currant.
Then it was time for the desserts. We were brought plates of many things at once, including a yogurt cake with passion fruit sauce, dark chocolate balls (that oozed soft chocolate when we bit into them) with strawberry sauce and a basil sorbet, chocolate mousse with a sweet candy bark, and small dishes of strawberry and peach sorbets. All were good, but nothing made us go “wow!” (though I did enjoy the chocolate balls that squirted in our mouths!).
Assorted Desserts.
Finally, the petit fours arrived: what tasted like pineapple and sugar on a spoon (way too sweet); candied dried beet, which was an interesting mix of bitter and sweet; chocolate studded with corn, really unique and good; rice pudding in rice skin, also tasty; and a white bean mousse with red tea, which was very odd tasting (and not in a good way).
Petits Fours.
Our verdict: While the dinner was good, it felt more casual, more New York even, than any of the other places we’d been. The others had all felt special, like we were embarking on a grand culinary adventure where the chefs had created everything with precision and care. Here, dishes felt a little more thrown together, and though there was definitely a lot of effort put into their creation, they didn’t always work. We had higher hopes for Arzak, and we wondered if they were resting on their laurels a little with all of the amazing press they’ve gotten in the last few years. Hopefully the magic will return to them soon.
- by Liz Humphreys, Winederlust Eater in Chief
Winederlust Rating Details (out of 10):
Food: 6.0 (preparation, presentation & taste)
Wine: 6.0 (selection, recommendations, pairings & taste)
Service: 6.5 (helpfulness, attentiveness, knowledge & pacing)
Place: 6.0 (location, view, decor & vibe)
Price Range: $$$$ (Incredibly Expensive)
Essential Information:
ARZAK / Avda. Alcalde Jose Elosegui, 273, 20015 Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain [map]
Direct Line: (34) 943 278 465 / 943 285 593
Website: http://www.arzak.info/index.html (email through the Website for reservations)
Closed Sunday and Monday; Reservations Essential.
Everyone raves about it but i largely agree w/ your sentiments - it just isn't that impressive.
Posted by: ChuckEats | Monday, 03 August 2009 at 04:27 AM